Georgia Wei shows us Parc de Belleville

Georgia Wei shows us Parc de Belleville

This week, Our Paris Stories celebrates the story of Georgia Wei, an English teaching assistant from New York whose love for France’s language and history brought her to Paris. Georgia chose to meet at Parc de Belleville, located in one of her favorite neighborhoods in the city. She discusses everything from her love for Asian food (we need to try this 3.70 EUR Bánh mì she raves about from Khai Tri!) to the racism she has faced as an Asian-American living in France. Read on to see how Georgia deals with her own set of expat challenges and what message she’d like to give on this topic.

What is your Paris story?

I was 15 the first time I stepped foot on Parisian soil (or, rather, sidewalk).  As a native New Yorker, even then I was a snob about cities– in my opinion, New York City was the greatest place in the world, and literally nothing could compare.  But the minute I arrived in Paris, I could tell something was different.  It was that visit, a mere 3 days, that sparked my interest in pursuing French so that I could eventually study abroad and live in Paris.  In my junior year of college, I spent 9 months living in Paris and taking courses at la Sorbonne Nouvelle.  I loved speaking French, I loved walking around and being filled with history at every turn, and admittedly, it was also nice being able to study in such a large city and not, say, rural Vermont.  After my year abroad I could not help but think about ways to come back, and so I applied for a position as an English teaching assistant through TAPIF (Teaching Assistant Program in France).  As a teaching assistant, I spent approximately 12 hours a week in the classroom with French middle schoolers, teaching English through lessons about American culture.  The program is only 7 months and has its downsides, such as a relatively low stipend, especially for Paris, but it provided an incredible opportunity for me to come back to Paris and integrate myself in a way that was not possible as an international student.

Tell us about this spot you chose.

Belleville is a source of comfort for me.  I first came to this neighborhood in the search of dumplings– I’m Chinese and they are one of my ultimate comfort foods and remind me of family, since it was always a tradition at home to handmade dumplings from start to finish and then feast upon them.  Belleville is one of the two Chinatowns in Paris and is an incredibly vibrant and diverse neighborhood.  I love Belleville because it offers such a different version of Paris, while all the same maintaining so much of that majestic beauty I love so much.  Here at the Parc de Belleville is one of the best views of the city, whether it’s noon and you are having a beautiful picnic in the park or it’s 3 am and you are coming back from the bar.  You can’t help but stop and take it in.  It helps that some of my best friends in Paris live and have lived in this neighborhood, so whenever I come here, it’s to be with the people I love most.

What do you like most about living abroad?

I am a ride and die New Yorker, but I love living in Paris because here, I feel like I have time to breathe.  Although Paris has all the best parts of a big city, the culture here is less frantic and hurried than I am used to back home– I am proud to say that I rarely take a coffee (rather, a cafe) to go and I always try to stop and smell the roses.  Living abroad allows me to think about where I am from with a more critical lens, while also allowing me to appreciate my home in ways I never would have otherwise.  Also, boulangeries.

What challenges do you face as an expat?

Life as an expat can be frustrating, sometimes.  Befriending French people is something I still struggle with, even though I am relatively comfortable in French, and so most of my close friends are also expats, which at times makes me feel a bit like a stereotype.  As an Asian American, I am also often struck by the racism I face here, as well as the constant feeling that, because of my race, I will always be considered doubly foreign.  Sometimes I can laugh it off, such as the time when once of my students asked me if I was “made in Japan”, and sometimes it sits with me.  Thankfully, through online resources like the Expats of Color in Paris Facebook group, I can blow off some steam and find people who can relate.

A lot of the racism I experience comes from men who try to wield it as a form of power over me, whether it is the man in the metro trying to hit on me by shouting Ni hao and following me down the station, or the the man at the bar trying to hit on me by asking me my name, no no, your Chinese name, and then bragging about how much he knows about China.  However it is also something I saw with my students, who found it difficult to reconcile my Asian identity with my American one– I am sure that many of them still think I was born in China, even after I repeatedly told them otherwise.  Because of my face, people are constantly surprised that I can speak French, and I wonder what it must be like to be French and Asian and have your identity constantly questioned.  What makes it even more aggravating is having French people tell me I am being oversensitive and that it is just the kind of humor that exists here.  They aren’t wrong about the last part, but it doesn’t make it right.  Lately, I have been making it a point to call out racist comments for what they are, politely explaining why what they are saying is inappropriate when I have the emotional energy, throwing dirty looks when I just want to move on with my life.
This problem is not exclusive to the French, but I think Americans are getting more used to having public conversations about the different ways that racism can manifest, from seemingly innocuous microagressions to police violence against people of color.  I would ask that people stop being so defensive when they are called out for saying something inappropriate– we all make mistakes, but we can all learn from them.  Try listening.

How do you meet people in Paris?

I am all about meeting people online.  My closest friends are people I met on meetup (I believe it was the 20s and 30s Girls in Paris group) and TAPIF related groups, but I am also a fan of the Social Girls in Paris group.  Even when meeting people I never see again, I appreciate the experience to connect with people who come from such different backgrounds.  Making friends here definitely takes a lot of effort but it is worth it.

What advice would you give to others wanting to move abroad?

Be open minded.  Teaching was not necessarily a dream job of mine, especially since I worried that going abroad would set my career back, but it ended up being an incredibly fulfilling year for me.  Do your research and see what opportunities you have, and do your best to be comfortable in the language of the country.  Being able to speak French has made all the difference for me– even opening a bank account was not that bad for me, and bonus points, people tend to be impressed when Americans can speak another language proficiently.

Where is your favorite place to eat or grab a drink here in Paris?

For 3.70 EUR, Khai Tri in the 13th has the best sandwich you will ever have your life– their banh mis are the absolute best in the city.  Holybelly is one of the few places I think is really worth the hype, their brunch is incredible and incredibly well priced.  La Robe et la Mousse is a fantastic new craft beer bar that opened on the left bank (finally!) and has incredibly friendly and knowledgeable bartenders.

How can people continue following your story?

I periodically blog on georgiawei.wordpress.com and can always be found on Instagram at @jawjuhh.